Not every gown flatters every body shape, as you would know from every-day clothing. There are some styles and colours that look better on you than others. Because we are passionate about brides having a gown that both fits them perfectly but also flatters their body the most while balancing the groom’s physique (important in photos) we focus on this area possibly more than other companies. It is also the reason we pay a lot more in wages to have a highly trained designer / dressmaker consult with brides-to-be when they visit us, rather saving the money in wages by having a person just good at sales in the shop.
Now, with some information that may help you—but if you are still unsure, please call the shop closest to you and book in a free consultation to help you understand what and why a certain style of gown will suite you best.
HOUR GLASS
Bust and hip measurements will be equal or nearly equal. Waist measurement will be 20 cm to 30 cm smaller than the bust and hips.
Slim Hour glass figures can wear almost anything.
Fuller figured hour glass figures are best with structured waists and firmer material, but can also choose a variety of tops and skirts.
PEAR SHAPED
Small upper body, usually with small shoulders and bust. Small waist, but the hips and bottom two or more sizes bigger than the top; waist 20 cm to 30 cm smaller than the bust measurement; hips 15 cm plus bigger than the bust.
Pear-shaped women look stunning in the traditional full skirt and fitted bodice. In fact, this style, if chosen correctly can completely obscure the lower body so as to make the bride look very slim. For girls who prefer straighter styles, an off-the-shoulder, or very wide V neck can help balance out the body shape. Empire lines also sometimes work wonders.
TRIANGLE SHAPED
Often referred to as a sporty body or boyish body. (Most female Olympic swimmers have this body shape). This bride has very broad shoulders; may or may not have a big bust; has very little curve to the hips and has a smallish waist.
Dresses that have wider straps and / or V-necks help slim the upper body (Halter necks sometimes work) and skirts that are slimmer over the hips but fuller at the bottom helps balance the shoulders. Straight-across strapless styles are probably best avoided.
OBLONG SHAPED
Sometimes also called an apple shape. This bride may have broad shoulders; may have large or small bust; but probably doesn’t have too much of a curve at the waist; bust and hip measurements probably about the same and waist 0 cm to 15 cm smaller than the bust measurement.
This is perhaps the trickiest body shape to dress. However, a good dress-maker with the proper construction and boning through the waist, can quite often create curves, and V-necks and flared skirts can add to the illusion of more curves. Straight-across strapless styles should be avoided as this just emphasizes the “blockiness” of the upper body. V-necks and sweetheart styles are usually the most flattering for this body type.
BIG BUSTED
Although probably self conscious of your chest, don’t have the neckline too high as this gives an illusion of an even bigger unshapely bust. Ideally, the neckline at the centre front should be equidistant to the point of the bust as the under-bust line is to the point of the bust. (See illustrations below).
In fact, if the neckline is slightly lower it can make you look even smaller busted. Some flat pleats at an angle over the bust or seams can also create the illusion of a smaller bust. (Something cut into 3’s or 5’s looks smaller than the original whole).
SMALL BUSTED
Thankfully these days there is all kinds of help for the small busted girl—plenty of pads to put into dresses and “chicken-fillet” thingies to wear against the skin.
Ruching, frills, and pleats over the bust, in fact any texturing seems to add volume to the bust, so look for these things in your gown.
SOFT WAIST
Amazing shaping of the waist can be achieved with professional corsetry inside a gown. Look for internal boning and structure when purchasing your gown. You can literally lose inches off your waist with the right construction.
SMALL SHOULDERS
Widely-placed straps cap sleeves and off-the-shoulder bodices give the illusion of wider shoulders. Don’t wear a dress that has too full a skirt unless you are also pair-shaped.
BROAD SHOULDERS
Thick straps break up the expanse of the shoulder. Fuller hems also help balance out the shoulders. V-necks seem to slim down the upper body also.
BACK FAT
Most styles of gowns should fit very snuggly at the waist, but just skim the body around the bust (strapless gowns, especially!) But if you are worried about back fat overhanging your dress, choose a style with arm holes, and be sure not to have the chest area made too tight.
SHORT LEGS
I have short legs, so this one is close to home for me. High heels are a wonderful invention, but even if you can’t wear kiler heels, just make sure the proportions of the dress are right. Empire-line gowns are wonderful—if your body shape allows—if not keep the hip line no lower than 1/3 (one third) down the dress, making the legs look like 2/3 (two thirds)—see illustration:
SHORT (Compared to your Fiance)
Strapless gowns tend to shorten the body because the eye starts at the top of the dress or gown. Straps of some kind tend to stretch the body out. Veils also are wonderful for stretching (we recommend full length ones) as the eye then starts at the top of the veil and moves down. If you really don’t want to wear a veil just some headpiece to attract the eye as high as is beautiful helps, i.e., flowers, a pretty broach, ribbons, etc.
High heels are great to make you look taller but make sure they are comfortable for your feet. Platform shoes allow more height without suffering the pain of excessive height in the heels. However, practice walking in the shoes, so you look elegant, and don’t run the risk of tripping or falling over. PS: tell your gown designer if abnormally high heels will be purchased so sufficient fabric can be cut for the hem to be correct.
VERY TALL (Compared to your Fiance)
Ballet flats are wonderful shoes to wear to minimize height, but as above, practice walking elegantly in them as feet flat on the ground can make you walk “clumpity”. If you are wearing a veil, wear it lower on your head
YOUR FIANCE IS TALL AND SOLID AND YOU ARE PETITE
Use volume in your dress and all the short-girl tips to balance your size to his.
YOU ARE MARRYING A SHORT SLIM GENTLEMAN (Compared to you)
Wear a slim-line dress and encourage him to wear a more substantial jacket—slightly longer cut, for example.
SKIN TONES AND COLOURS TO SUIT
In general terms there are two skin tones: warm and cool. To check which tone you are, look at the inside of your wrist. If you aren’t sure, compare your inside wrist to other family, friends, it will soon become obvious if you are warm (golden) or cool (sort of blue).
If your skin is warm, you should feel best in warm toned clothes such as cream, coffee, chocolate, olives, apricots, pinks, and brownish reds like burgundy, etc.
If your skin is cool, you should feel best in cool colours like white, ice blue, baby pink, mint green, jade, purples and navy, etc. Try on various bridal colours and take particular notice of how your skin looks against the colour. Believe it or not, you should look healthier in your face if you are wearing the right colour, and will look drained and pasty if wearing an incorrect colour.
Note: Fake tan turns cool skin to warm-toned. Keep that in mind if you intend to fake it for your wedding!
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